The best way for me to describe Antarctica is "otherworldly". It's so unlike anything I've ever seen that even weeks later I'm still trying to process the experience.
- written by my cruise mate, RW, on fb.
You can click on this link to return to the previous post on Ushuaia. Read on for my adventure in Antarctica.
4 Mar 2016 Thu afternoon, about to board the cruise
I went to the Esmeralda this morning, then Freddy's for lunch, before finally appearing at the pier at 5pm to board the cruise. It was a mad rush trying to board the cruise on time.
It turned out that I was the last passenger boarding. The ship was eager to disembark. They were trying to steer ahead of the storm that came from north west. I felt guilty for coming late. If only I knew.
Crew preparing to leave the port.
Bed in triple room 639
Laptop/computer area
Lounge, a place that we will be spending much time in during the cruise.
Welcome feast
The original M/V Ushuaia before she got fitted with lounge and more rooms.
The 6 of us Chinese became good friends fast. I met my roommate: J from Scotland and B from Bulgaria.
The safety drill was interrupted by the sighting of an orca, barely 1 hour of sailing. The Chinese lady N saw it first. She discovered many things later in the trip, very sharp lady.
Listen to the briefing.
Lifejacket drill.
Life-capsule- each can carry 40+ passengers surviving for 3-4 days while awaiting rescue.
Calling Ushuaia a moron??
First meal with new found friends from China.
First pic with my roommates P and J.
The waves was strong. Saw a sailing boat travelling in opposite direction during dinner. I went out and take photos of the boat. Documentary shown was dated. I went back to the room to crash. I didn't even get a minute of sleep in the end. J was sliding towards the door and I was rolling from side to side. Things flew everywhere. Drake passage was bad.
5 Mar 2016 Wed @ M/V Ushuaia (Antarctica has no time zone, most cruise ships follow Argentinian time)
Breakfast was served at 8am. Instead of 2 stations we only had one due to the drake passage. Some people spilled their hot drinks due to lack of balance. Some look ghastly due to vomiting, like the jap. I had it easier cos' I took seasick pills and ate less.
Slept here in main cabin as I can balance better here sitting than on bed. The GPS showed we were progressing towards the half way mark. At the rate it is going tomorrow we should be able to reach the continent.
(Note on Googlemap: Once you have downloaded the Antarctica map while there was wifi in Ushuaia, you can track the location of the ship while on board the cruise, without internet access. The satellite will beam the current location of the ship and indicate it on Googlemap.)
The moment the lecture on seabirds began, I started to doze off due to the lack of sleep last night. Lunch was awesome, i finished all of it. The cafeteria was very rocky. Some people left because they couldn't bear rocking inside the cafeteria. The lounge was better I think. We used gps on google map to ascertain our location from time to time. We wrote down the wet boot size and the crew brought the boots to our room later. Cleaning of the boots must be carried out before and after each landing to prevent contamination of the pristine Antarctica soil.
Afternoon lecture was on Antarctica and as usual I fell asleep after 5 minutes the lecture began. This time was shameless lie-flat-on-4-lounge-chair style instead of sit sleeping. Felt drowsy when woke up but hey I finally got some sleep. Just nice the lecture ended and pastries were served. Gobbled down much cos' I was femish.
The youngster group started chatting away till dinner time. Whether Trump will be the next president of USA and where the Americans will escape to if really he did get elected was brought up for a good laugh.
Ever since we disembarked from Ushuaia, the sunset and blue sky came out for the first time. I rushed out of the dining room and went straight to the deck to take some photos of sunset with the seabirds. I happened to sit next to the Ukrainian scientist S who was taking the cruise to the base station to work for a month. He will join his crew who had already worked there for one year on their return voyage in a month's time. He studies electronic activities in magnetic field in very near space (~90 to about 500km within the atmosphere).
After dinner a documentary on American science base station in Antarctica was shown. I bought myself and P a beer (beer usd4/can, softdrink 3/can, you can charge to the room for settlement before returning to mainland). Knocked out in the room after the beer, realised that J was already lying on his bed in the room before me lol. Sleep was fantastic due to the improving sea conditions.
6 Mar 2016 Thu Afternoon landing: Barrientos Island
Morning was misty. No sunrise for us. S shown me some sunrise photos he took from the base station last time on the shared pc.
There was a competition on what time will the first iceberg be spotted. I wrote a timing that was completely off the chart. First iceberg was sighted around 815am.
We were nearing the land mass, as albatross was spotted.
Nearing the South Shetland Islands.
First landing was at Barrientos island, after our lunch. Two species of penguins can be found there nesting - Chainstrap and Gentoo. 8 to a zodiac and off we went after we put on the necessary gear.
Advance party
First landing
First encounter with the penguins
So many of them.
Hi there...who are you?
Sunbathing
Chin-strapped penguin
The normal penguin
Chasing from behind
I am not going to give up...
Look, look, a bird, a plane, a ....superman!
Early return to the boat as the wind started to pick up speed...
The penguin could not stand my roommate posing for his daily model shot...
leaving the island
Sunnier now...
The sun the sea the penguins the seals and the green put together perfect pictures, looked a bit like Scotland actually. I managed to see the strange nacreous clouds as well. Glorious day.
In case you would like to know more about nacreous clouds, please click this link: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/science/northern-lights-nacreous-clouds- aurora-borealis-uk-sightings-a6849316.html
Sunset...
We were supposed to cross the "mini" Drake tonight but the word "mini" was misleading. The ship rocked so much that people couldn't even have meals inside the cafeteria. I took seasick pills and slept in the main cabin in the end. Only at around 3am when the ship was no longer rocking, then I went back to my room to sleep.
7 Mar 2016 Thu
Morning landing: Portal Point - First continental landing
The weather was no longer sunny. Snowy. We had one landing in the morning to see the seals followed by the zodiac cruise around the icebergs. Portal Point was our first continental landing in this trip.
photographing the seals
Zodiac cruising around the icebergs
Close up
U shape
Frozen Nessy
seal resting on iceberg.
During lunch
L and her plate, courtesy of the cafeteria. That's what you get when you told the kitchen you wanted nothing.
Afternoon landing: Foyn Harbour
We were splitted into 2 groups, team Edmundsen and team Scott. Team Scott will visit the ship wreck first. I was in the team Edmunsen (J and P called me a traitor for that). In my boat was a very good photographer from NZ. He spotted the two birds sharing food it was photo taking moment.
Looked like the pastry Kueh Lapis (layered cake)
Wreck of an old abandoned whaling boat in Antarctica, which belonged to the whaling ship Governoren, a Norwegian whaler that caught fire and got aground in Foyn Harbor.
The remains of the whaling ship Governoren.
The bollards. (Our guide AU learnt this new word that day and was pleased.)
We found a lonely chin-strapped penguin in this place.
How did it end up here, alone?
Fighting for food
After the zodiac cruise we got back to the cruise and continue to sail on.
People gathered at the bridge to see the whales. First encounter with the whale...it was belching...
Dinner time was a big discovery for me. I happened to sit opposite the jap guy RT. RT (who was having seasick earlier in the voyage) actually travel round the world for close to 3 years. He worked as a soldier for 9 years before embarking on his round-the-world travel. He bought a 125cc bike in Columbia and rode the bike all the way to Ushuaia over a period of 2 months, with stops along the way. He reached Ushuaia and took up a last minute cruise package at a bargain price.
He told me his friend was going to get married in 3 months time so he asked if I can help him record a video of his greeting. I gladly agreed and asked P to help too since P had a tripod.
Me signing off on the zodiac for the day :)
8 Mar 2016 Fri
Morning landing: Petermann Island
The sunrise next morning was not spectacular but the whole narrow Lemaire Channel was lighted up by the presence of the sun.
United colors of Benetton. Admiring the Lemaire Channel.
Sliding into the water
King sized bed
You cover the left, I cover the right
Sliding into the water
let there be light...
In the cabin, K's brother and his wife.
Reached Petermann Island
A very sunny day...
Guess where are our heads??
Out with it!
Thought you said out with it!! Where are yours?
Noodles
I believe I can fly...
I am curious...
His daily model shoot continue...
Footprints
Tiny us on a huge island
Skua
Proposing
We had a landing this morning to see the Adélie penguins (rare in march). It was good time on the island.
Ryota's greetings for his friend in Japan who will have wedding in 3 months.
P filming the penguins.
The whale watching from the zodiac in near distance on the way back was magical. We all had good photos of the humpback whales.
It was a bit cloudy on the island but once we are back to the ship it was all sunny. The whales were still around us.
Whale got in the way between the zodiacs and the ship
Not one but two
big one
Another chance of shooting the two whales...
The other boats now watching the whales
Satisfied with their photo taking of the whales...
The expedition team that made our expeditions so successful.
Leaving the sunny island and continue on in the Lemaire Channel
Bb with her sunshine smile
I managed to solve some camera problems of a Spanish couple (Sd & her husband) whom R introduced, we took photo together. Bb helped us took this shot. In the picture: R, Sd'hubby, Sd and me.
Afternoon landing: Vernadsky Base Station
Weather turned misty as soon as after lunch. We are going to drop S off at the Ukrainian base station Vernadsky later. The station does not have internet. So far only male scientists worked in the station, they have not received the first female scientist yet. An old expedition house called Woodie House was nearby.
Soccer field in the summer was covered with ice now.
Lab
Gym
There was a souvenir shop and J managed to find his shot glass. Totally Scottish. I used the gents after the wine, found female magazines in the toilet cubicles with torn pages lol.
Donating panties/bras to the all-male only Vernadsky Base Station.
It used to be a British station before the Ukrainian bought it in 1995. Vodka were all finished according to the bar, so we can only drink wine. Postcards can be sent out here.
After trip note: Two months after we sent out the postcards, most have not received them. It can take that long to deliver postcards from the base station to the parts of the world lol.
After the station visit, we went to see Woodie house. The house was preserved to show people how a historical expedition base was like.
N&A hiked from the Woody House.
Overlooking from the top towards the Woody House.
Overlooking the Vernadsky Station.
Drinking time after the dinner. P offered us fernet with coke. Sea was calm so lotsa people in the lounge. B and i went back to the room earlier whereas the others stayed till 1am.
#639 live forever
Admiring the Lemaire Channel
9 Mar 2016 Sat
Morning zodiac cruise in the icebergs alley: Pleneau Bay
Penguins leaping out
Morning swim
We did a zodiac cruise at Pleneau bay and we saw very blue icebergs.
Sleeping in the sh*t lol
Kryptonite
For whisky tonight...
Underneath the ice taken during the zodiac rides.
BBQ lunch today
Afternoon landing: Charkot Point.
Afternoon was snowy during the cruise. We were sailing towards Charkot point.
Wait for me...
Hike up
View from the top
Whose??
My friends did a snowman within few minutes. It became a photography point.
M/V Ushuaia
Looking out
Bell
Moroni
I happened to hang out near the bar and ended up drinking with D&W and Asst Capt AG as the movie Redknot was played. M/V Ushuaia was featured in the film. AG told us that the ship in the movie was how Ushuaia looked like: 639 wasn't in the ship. The lounge was open deck for helipad before. The reason why the ship was rocking so badly in the movie was because the ship was steering inside the Antarctica sound, known for its fast winds.
The movie trailer for Red Knots in youtube
Today's updates by our expedition leader AU on the facebook page:
10 Mar 2016 Sun
Morning landing: Brown Station
We woke up sailing in Lemaire channel.
This morning we were having a landing in the Brown station. No one at the station during this time.
Brown Station
We went to a high point to do a slide down.
Then Snowball fight started. My friends from China did two snowmen for photography. They made one the other day too, but I didn't get to see that one.
The guys made snowball to attack the expedition leader AU. L was wondering how to bring down her huge ammo.
It was zodiac cruise after the landing. Barely 5 minutes on the zodiac and we spotted 2 whales. My friend from China even captured the head of the whale emerging from water in his camera. We also saw a sail boat in the bay.
The sail boat
Cute sleeping seal
Waving at us taking the seal
L looked like the seal was going to kiss her lol
Afternoon landing: Neko Harbour
It was a hiking trip - which J liked. The hiking was halted halfway due to suspicion of unstable snow higher up. Nearby glacier was quite active, we heard sound of calving of icebergs. There was an unusual (unexplained) deaths of penguins at the beach.
Neko harbour with the dead penguins
Hiking up the hill
Did I forget to tell you that I love you today, darling?
Shall we kiss....
Reflection
Bb was surprised I had been to Isle of Skye before. She showed me photos of her house in Isle of Skye. Interesting stories from R and Bb. Tonight we had drinking and dancing.
11 Mar 2016 Mon
The ship entered the Deception Island in 40 knots of strong wind. Landing was delayed. When we finally found a good place to dock, people couldn't wait to get onshore. The dead krills on the black-sand volcanic beach attracted many birds.
Deception Island (62°57'S, 60°38'W) is one of the most incredible islands on the planet. It is an active volcano in the South Shetland Islands, off the Antarctic Peninsula. Its unique landscape comprises barren volcanic slopes, steaming beaches and ash-layered glaciers. It has a distinctive horse-shoe shape with a large flooded caldera. This opens to the sea through a narrow channel at Neptunes Bellows, forming a natural sheltered harbour. It is one of the only places in the world where vessels can sail directly into the centre of a restless volcano.
Information quoted from http://www.deceptionisland.aq/
We did our polar plunge. Frozen to death. The wind gets stronger as we returned for the much needed hot shower.
Saw whales as the ship exit the island.
Entering the Deception Island
K was happy about the polar plunge later
In case you need...
P used it anyway...
Temp = 1
AU announcing that we were going to do the plunge soon...
We were standing in the crater rim now...volcano below us...
The dead krills attracted many birds...
The plunge
Afternoon landing was supposed to be Half Moon Island. Sunny but snowing. No landing due to strong wind.
The polar plungers and 7th-continenters took group picture at the top deck, organised by C&L. I was in the group photo of polar plungers.
Picture courtesy of C&L.
I was feeling rather miserable in the evening. Cold and felt a little bit seasick. Took pills and light fruits dinner. Sat at the deck till 1020pm when J went back to his room.
Leaving Deception Island
At the bridge
Sunset
12 Mar 2016 Tue
The sleep last night proved to be challenging: roll + cold. The next morning was ok for me. I felt alright again and got my usual appetite. Many people fell ill though. China lady D fell and broke her jaw while carrying bread for her friend JL. I didn't know the loud thud I heard was not from the kitchen but from her hitting the floor. I was at the bar when the Australian lady asked for someone who speaks mandarin. I quickly rush to the clinic. It was a mess. Blood trail leading the staircase. D fell with one hand holding the bread and the other hand on the railing when the ship rolled and caused her lose balance. Doctor G said she should be fine but some bleeding and swelling expected.
Many were not feeling too well in the cabin. I bought the USA guy a sprite to cheer him up but he could only take 2 sips before retreating to his room. I shared the seasick pills that I got from the clinic and shared with the rest of the passengers who had been unwell. We had seal challenge in the late afternoon. I was in the team of R, P and J+K. We won ourselves a bottle of white wine after beating 5 other teams though I must say I contributed the least. We decided to open it tomorrow cos tonight was not the night for party.
The night was even worse than before. We had very bad rolling. I stayed up in the lounge till 420am before going back to my room to sleep. The room was a mess again due to the rolling.
Toilet bowl flew off due to the Drake shake...picture shared by L on fb.
13 Mar 2016 Wed
The next morning we had to be assisted during the breakfasts. Once we selected what we wanted, the dining room staff will bring the bowl we were holding to the table. At the bridge I learnt from AG that the ship was experiencing 50-60 knots of wind and the ship was sailing at 13-14 knots.
The ship gradually returned to stable state the moment we spotted the continent.
Rainbow
Finally reconnect with the land
Last belching saw...
Dolphins and whales were spotted by other passengers. Sunny generally except when we went through some rain clouds. Once the ship was near the Beagle Channel, we returned our boots and life vests. We could collect back our passports which now has a Antarctica stamp on it from the bar once we settled our bill.
Stamps collected on my passport
We had photos recap moment and certificate presentation. It was a barrel of laughter looking at all the silly moments we had on Antarctica, as the crew played the photo slides.
We took turns to receive our certificates and thanked the crew. After that we dropped in our tips and feedback forms.
dvd cover
Dinner was fantastic. The cook really made an effort to make sure the food was good.
We had our dance night, Latin dances followed by disco. I retreated to my sleep before J and P.
Party time
14 Mar 2016 Thu
Woken up by the announcement that the ship has berthed and breakfasts will be ready in 20 minutes. I went up to the lounge and bid the early risers goodbye. Quark Expedition ship Ocean Endeavour docked around the same time as ours and people at the pier couldn't wait to get on. I didn't know there was some celebrities on this ship next to us, more stories on that in the next post :)
Finally got to see Ushuaia, after 11 days away...
Please click HERE or on the picture below to read the next blog post, on Buenos Aires.
You can also click on this link to return to the previous post on Ushuaia.
I have written an article on Antarctica and submit to a local newspaper (Mypaper), it was published on 10 Aug 2016 :)
Map in Antarctica with cruise routeand stops.
Video taken by the expedition crew and gave to us as souvenir, found inside the dvd.
Video credit: Our cruise company Antarpply Expeditions, please feel free to visit their website www.antarpply.com.
This picture taken by our expedition crew in Portal Point (our first continental landing) is one of my favourite photos. Everyone was so candid!
Photo credit: Our cruise company Antarpply Expeditions, please feel free to visit their website www.antarpply.com.
Our ship M/V Ushuaia featured on the Time magazine, posted on fb.
